Surface Active Agent / Cleansing Agent / Detergent
Molecules with a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a hydrophobic (oil-loving) tail that reduce surface tension between oil and water, allowing the two to mix. In skincare, surfactants are the active cleansing agents in facial washes and shampoos. They surround and emulsify sebum, makeup and dirt, allowing them to be rinsed away. Surfactant types vary enormously in harshness: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) — harsh, disrupts barrier; sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) — milder; coco-glucoside/decyl glucoside — gentle, derived from coconut; amphoteric surfactants (cocamidopropyl betaine) — very mild.
Harsh surfactants (SLS, SLES) raise skin pH, disrupt the lipid bilayer of the SC, and cause significant barrier disruption. For sensitive, dry or barrier-compromised skin, look for surfactant-free or amino acid-based (sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl isethionate) cleansers.
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